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In keeping with our nod to the classics by offering the fabulous 2010 Paveil de Luze this morning, I thought it would be a good idea to write up our fantastic dinner at Medlar in Chelsea last night. The UGC tasting brings representatives from a host of classed growth chateaux to London to show the most recently bottled vintage to the UK trade, amongst whom were 2 of the most debonaire and exciting wine makers in Bordeaux - Jean-Antoine Nony of Grand Mayne and Matthieu Cuvelier of Poujeaux and Clos Fourtet. RDFW has enjoyed a great relationship with these 2 guys for as long as we've been in existence and they personify why Bordeaux is still the King of the Castle when it comes to quality wine regions. So, with these 2 in town, we thought it would be prudent to get a small group together to sample their wares and hear a bit more about their history. 

The Filia de Grand Mayne 2011 kicked us off. Forward, fresh, fruit-driven and drinking wonderfully now, exactly what you want from a 2nd wine. I think 2011 will turn out like 2001. On release it didn’t make too many waves but the wines keep getting better and better. The 2005 Poujeaux followed. The small appellation of Moulis is sandwiched in between Margaux and St.Julien on the left bank and is surrounded by big names. It’s amazing that the prices have remained so sensible. The 2005 is entering its 2nd phase of development and showed beautiful minerality and smoky notes, as well as the core of fruit that you would expect. The final wine of our first trio was the 2005 Grand Mayne. Slightly more masculine in style and not quite as developed as the Poujeaux although the tannins have softened and this is already a delicious drink. Anyone with this in their cellar should feel smug about their purchase.

The 2nd trio started with the 2006 Clos Fourtet. Very different in style to Grand Mayne, a bit more feminine and almost Burgundian on the nose (dare I say it?!). The dark berry fruit characters mixed with some floral and charcoal notes and led to a long, elegant finish. Truly delicious. The 2010 Grand Mayne was big and masculine and still very primary at this stage. Plenty of cassis and blueberry fruit and ripe tannins that will soften in time. After having tried the 2005 earlier in the evening, I would expect this to develop nicely. The 1988 Grand Mayne finished things off and what a treat this was. It drank beautifully and definitely surpassed Mr.Parker’s rather miserly 87-point score and description. The nose gave plenty of violets, smoke, tobacco, black currant and more. Although this has reached full maturity, it will continue to drink for the foreseeable future.

Our thanks to the team at Medlar. As always, the service was fantastic, the private room upstairs was the perfect setting and the food was enjoyed by all present. Sometimes it’s hard to see the forest for the trees in Bordeaux, but last night reminded me that there are still outstanding wines to be found without breaking the bank. Grand Mayne, Poujeaux and Clos Fourtet are all worthy of cellar space and should offer could value come 2015 En-Primeur.

Will Evered - 13th October 2015